The Al Hajar Traverse | Lost & Curious

Eleven days, 1650 kms of trails, for an amazing off-road adventure in Eastern Arabia!

We have recently posted a guide dedicated to the Sultanate of Oman, called the Oman trail. A 4.000 kms loop around the country along amazing trails. However, the original Oman trail, as described in my dairies – Letters from the Oman trail – was an off-road trip I did from Dubai all the way to Qalhat via Muscat, a couple of summers ago. This new travel guide, renamed the Al Hajar Traverse, is the result of that original journey, plus a new section in the Al Hajar Ash Sharqi, and can be linked to the Oman trail.

map al Hajar traverse — The Al Hajar Traverse. 1650 kms of trails across the UAE and Oman

Available for you is the Google Earth .KMZ file you’ll need to open in Google Earth to visualise the trail, and then transfer as a GPX file on the gps device of your choice.
To open it, go to GOOGLE EARTH, click on FILE, then OPEN, go to DOWNLOADS, and select AlHajarTraverse.kmz

Please click on the link below to download the trail.
The Al Hajar Traverse

Introduction
Basic informations
Ways to travel
Local history
The Al Hajar
The route
- Day One – From Dubai to Mleiha
- Day Two – From Mleiha to Al Wadi Resort
- Day Three – From Al Wadi Resort to Fayyad
- Day Four – From Fayyad to Qubur Zalim
- Day Five – From Qubur Zalim to Bat
- Day Six – From Bat to Jabal Shams
- Day Seven – From Jabal Shams to Jabal Akhdar
- Day Eight – From Jabal Akhdar to Muscat
- Day Nine – Muscat
- Day Ten – From Muscat to Jabal Bani Jabir
- Day Eleven – From Jabal Bani Jabir to Fins

Conclusion

INTRODUCTION

Leaving Dubai behind, you will first drive through the sand dunes of the Emirates, before entering the Al Hajar mountain range in Ras al Khaimah. Once there, you will follow a successions of trails leading you across the border of Oman, and all the way to the sea port of Fins on the Gulf of Oman. This savvy mix of adventures across magnificent landscapes and stunning locations, will confront you with a wide spectrum of physical and technical challenges. You will observe and learn about local geology, discover a rich ancient history, and interact with an incredibly hospitable population. Jebal, wadii, forts, aflaj, ruins of old settlements, ancestral date gardens, beehive tombs, mosques, souks, and so much more, await you as you enter deep within a region entrenched in its traditions and ancestral ways…

This following guide tries to combines all the waypoints and informations you need to venture out safely and learn as much as you can about this enchanted land. Now, due to the rapid road network expansion in the region, not to mention natural alterations to the listed trails, the course described below may be subject to changes. Please make sure to come back to us in the comment section if you witness a roadblock or a new road where it used to be a trail, requiring us to modify our trace.

BASIC INFORMATIONS

This journey crossing two countries cannot be done in a rental car. No rental company in Dubai or Oman will allow you to cross the border between the two countries. As such, this guide is dedicated to the off-road enthusiasts of the region, or people willing to bring their own car/bike for the trip, such as overlanders on a broader journey. (However, I consider it too technical for larger overland vehicles such as campers)

- Languages. Arabic & some English. English will be fine most of the way. But be prepared in case you are confronted with a situation where you may need to interact with people that only speak arabic.
- Visas, CDP. The administrative requirements at the border between the UAE and Oman change often. Make sure to check with local authorities for the latests before leaving. What follows is what we know at the time of posting, but there is no guarantee it won’t change tomorrow.
  - You are a GCC citizen: All you need is to show your ID at the border entering Oman.
  - For the rest of us: At the UAE exit border, there is a 35 Dirham exit fee. At the Oman Border, you no longer can show up and get a visa on arrival. Instead you need to apply in advance online the Oman Royal Police website for an unsponsorded visa.
    It’s meant to be pretty simple – Fill in the online form, attach travel documents, then pay the fee through a secure Global Payment Gateway. You’ll then receive your visa and notifications via email.
    The tourist visa fee went up in April last year from OMR5 (Dhs47) to OMR20 (Dhs190). At the same time, the length of stay was increased from 10 days to a month.
    Remember, some nationalities do not require a visa to visit Oman, and some nationalities (like New Zealanders) can obtain a visa free of charge. To find out which visa you’re eligible for, visit the website and click ‘apply for unsponsored visa’. After answering a few questions, it will show which visa types are available to you.
    Regardless of your country of origin, if you are driving a vehicle from outside the GCC, your vehicle will require a Carnet de Passage to enter the UAE, as it will for Oman.
- Insurance:Valid insurance is required both in the UAE and Oman. Those can be purchased when entering the respected countries. Just know that those insurances do not cover off-road activities.
- Driving License: If holding a GCC country driving license you are fine. If not, you will need a valid international driving license.
- Money: The currency in the UAE is the Dirham, abbreviated AED. The currency in Oman is the Rial, abbreviated OMR.
  - To find out the exchange rate click for Dirhams click here.
  - To find out the exchange rate click for Rials click here.
  - You can pay in Dirhams in Oman and get your change in Rial.
  - Major credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, but when buying supplies in small food stores in remote villages it is advised strongly to have cash.
- Lodging: 99% of the time you’ll be camping under the stars. Camping is legal without restrictions in the UAE & Oman. It is very safe and the local population is extremely hospitable. It offers many beautiful sites for you to enjoy the nights.
  Still you have hotel options along the way, some extremely luxurious. As the trail is divided by days, we have listed all available options each days for you in the following route breakdown.
- Food: Again you are traveling in very remote areas. That is not to say there are no places to eat along the way, but most often you’ll be cooking at your campsite. We have listed all the restaurants as well as food stores you may find along the trail.
- When: The region can be extremely hot, and we strongly advise you to plan your trip between the end of November and the end of April. Any other time can be very hot, summer temperatures reaching 50° C on average.
- Weather: UAE weather – Oman weather.
- In case of an emergency: In the UAE call 999. In Oman call 9999
  That being said, while you can get decent coverage in some areas, most of the time you won’t.
  We strongly recommend you carry with you a satellite phone. As a matter of fact we think stupid and foolish to venture out without one.

WAYS TO TRAVEL

jeep — A 4×4 is your best option for this trail

This is first and foremost an off-road adventure. When I first ventured out with the intention to create this trail, I did it with a 4×4. Being an expat living in Dubai at the time, taking my own Jeep was the obvious choice. It is the “easiest”, most comfortable and fastest option available by far! As such, the selection of the various tracks that compose this journey, was made with that type of vehicle specifications and requirements in mind.

I’m pretty sure most of you will venture in the same manner, but there are other options available to you. Depending on your preferences, your motivations, your experience, and the physical condition you are in, a quad or a motorcycle, are also very rewarding options.

Whatever your mean of travel, you must clearly understand and be well prepared for the specifics your choice implies. No matter what you decide, and the advantages it may offer you, they all include risks you cannot ignore. There is no such thing as a 100% trouble free adventure, and that’s precisely what makes it an “adventure”. The best way to minimize those risks is to be well prepared. How ? Do everything possible to avoid trouble before hand, and be sufficiently self reliable to get yourself out of trouble if necessary.

Finally, may you be a “through” traveler looking to complete the trail in its entirety in one journey, or explore a selected part at a time, or may you decide do it in reverse, is all up to you.

Be prepared.
- Physically: No matter how you want to complete this journey, you must be sufficiently fit to survive any potential physical activity performed in this harsh and unforgiving environment. The heat, the lack of water, the isolation, are factors not to be taken lightly. Do not under-estimate the risks, thinking all will be just fine because you might be sitting comfortably in the air-cooled interior of a car. There will be many occasions for you to expose yourself and it can be brutal if not acclimated and ready. Again, to make it easier on you, plan your trip during the “cooler” months of the year, between late November and April.
- Mentally: This trail offers physical and technical challenges. Even though it was never designed with adrenaline junkies in mind, it may put you under stress every once in a while, depending on your level of experience. Be ready to reach out of your comfort zone now and then. Know yourself, observe, take your time and trust your judgement.
- Know your way: There are no maps or road atlas available in the region outlining the various dirt roads, trails or tracks you will follow for this journey. To safely navigate, you will need to download the routes (We strongly advise you to purchase the file to save you the time and effort – very soon ready for download in our boutique section) and all other pertinent navigation points onto a GPS device. To do so will required the use of softwares like Google Earth or Gamin’s Basecamp, etc.
  However do not rely entirely on your GPS, study the trail on Google Earth as much as you can. You should almost have it memorized; its path, the points of interests, the gas stations and other food supplies stores, the escape routes, etc… Your first asset is your personal knowledge. It will be extremely precious when confronted with unexpected alterations and roadblocks, may they be the result of natural degradations or human “progress”. I will try to update this guide with the latest evolutions based on the feedback I get from fellow travelers and authorities, and offer alternate options, but there is always a risk to be confronted with the unexpected, and you should be able to “improvise” on your own.
- Be technically savvy: Make sure your vehicle is in good working order before leaving. If you use your own, have it checked by a professional mechanic, and perform all due required service. To keep it in good order during your trip, drive/ride it with caution at all times. Your car or bike breaking down on its own is very unlikely, the odds of you breaking it by reckless driving, are unfortunately much higher. In case something is to happen, you must know how to diagnose the problem, and have the parts and the skills to fix it on the spot.

Driving.
Toyota Land Cruiser HJ45 by the side of the road
- 4×4: As outlined above, a real 4×4 is the obvious choice. It has the off-road capacity to take you everywhere safely on this trail, no matter how technical it may get.
  - Tires: All terrain tires are a minimum if you want to avoid punctures. Road and sand tires are to be avoided. Have a spare in good condition with you and a puncture kit for emergencies. (Learn how to use it before you’ll need it)
  - Enhancements: No modifications are necessary for this trip. I belong to a very small group, that believes a 4×4 is best kept in its original specifications. Driving a vehicle well thought of by experienced engineers and tested thoroughly by qualified technicians, sounds safer to me than an “artistically” modified “beast” assembled by a local backstreet garage. To each its own !
- Motorcycle / Quad: It’s not the size that matters, some complete the Dakar race on 125cc machines. It’s how you drive it and its fuel autonomy that matters. Keep it light, some of the climbs are really really steep and too much baggage will really drag you down.
  Listed on the following routes are all the fuel options along the way. Plan your fuel needs accordingly.
Nothing beats adventure on a bike
Driving tips:
if you are not familiar with off-road driving we strongly suggest you spend time reading our beginners guide to off-road driving. However, If you have no experience and plan on doing this alone, you are looking for a lot of troubles, especially in the desert section. More on solo driving below. The parts in the Al Hajar mountains are not too complicated, and if you are alone with little desert experience, I suggest you avoid the desert section and start the trail on day 3.
- Basic rules: First and foremost you must follow and stay on the indicated or visible track.
  A – because it’s the best way not to get lost,
  B – because the mountain terrain is way too hazardous to allow you some improvisation safely.
  A common mistake is to take a wrong path, and then decide to “cut through” to get back on the right one, instead of safely going backwards to the point where you took the wrong turn. What seemed like a short cut is 9 times out of ten a recipe for disaster.
  C – Do not enter a portion of the trail if you don’t feel capable of passing through. Turn around when you still can. There is no shame in knowing your limits. A u-turn under stress on a narrow track shouldering a cliff is not a fun nor safe experience, reversing is even worse. When in doubt, get out of your car and walk it first to make sure you know what you are getting yourself into. Then take your decision. There are many alternatives available for you on the trail.
  
  Most of the trails you will drive on are vital to local villagers and as such are in general well maintained… That is until it rains. Rain running down mountain slopes will follow the easiest path available to reach the wadi below. That path is your trail. In doing so, it will create trenches, gulleys and displace rocks of all sizes. It may even take down entire stretches of the trail if passing through it perpendicularly. For some, it is when the real fun begins, for others this is when unwanted complications will slow you down.
- Sand: Check out this dedicated post.
- Wadii: A wadi is a river bed. Most of the time it is dry. But that can change in a matter of minutes in case of rain. Flash floods are a real hazard in this region and claim the lives of careless travelers every year.
  Do not enter a narrow wadi if it is raining or the sky is menacing.
  When confronted with water crossing. Before entering, first check how deep the water is and how loose the ground underneath it is. In most cases it is very shallow as seen on the picture below and doesn’t require any particular skills. However, when in doubt, get out of the car, cross it on foot first all the way and back before engaging your car. If the water is deep enough to reach your brakes, once on the other side, press a couple times on your brake pedal to make sure they have not been affected by the maneuver.
  Do not attempt to cross during a flash flood. Instead, wait for the rain to stop and the water to go down, (it can happen rapidly and is well worth the wait), or simply turn around and find another way.
- Mud: Your chance of encountering mud on this trip is very slim. It only happens after a brief shower and usually dries rapidly. It is very similar to driving in sand. Good traction, the right gear and momentum is what matters.
  When confronted with mud, stop, assess the obstacle, deflate your tires for increase traction if you deem helpful, select the right gear combination and enter. Do not engage too fast by fear of getting stuck in the middle, chances are you will slide, spin your wheels and get stuck or worse hit too hard an obstacle you couldn’t see at first underneath and break something.
  If stuck in mud. Either get towed out if you are in a group, or get your Maxtrax or winch or a shovel if you are alone. If you have nothing like that with you, (then you are ill prepared !) pile rocks you can find around you underneath your tires to get better traction.
- Driving at night: Besides the obvious safety issues, what is the point ? You are on this trail to admire the landscape.
  The main reason why you might be tempted to drive at night is most likely to be because you want to reach a pre-determined campsite and you’re late. Don’t ! In case you realize you are not going to make it on time, look around you and find a suitable space while it is still daytime. There are plenty along the way. Just don’t settle for a spot in the middle of a wadi bed. As mentioned before, flash-floods are a serious threat to your life.
- Solo or in a group ?
  A group is almost always a safer way to enjoy this or any other adventurous endeavor. But it requires more organization and more discipline than going away on your own. When planning a group “expedition”, there is a lot more at stake than group chemistry. Being good friends is great, but it is not enough. Everybody must bring something to the team. Being responsible and in charge of a needed skill. May it be driving, navigation, mechanic, cooking, language, etc… A group of 10 drivers where nobody knows how to fix a flat tire, understands a map, doesn’t speak a word of arabic or ever started a fire, is not a team but a moving traffic jam looking for trouble.
  
  A team needs a leader, a person with authority that can open the road and guide others according to everyone’s potential. It takes a lot of experience and psychology to be a leader. It also needs a second “in command” sweeping at the back of the convoy, helping those in trouble. Communication among all team members is key. (However, it be noted for those coming from Dubai, that Walky-talkies are illegal in Dubai and can be confiscated at the border when returning from your trip. I had mine confiscated after a meticulous 1 hour search of my vehicle at 3 AM in the morning at the border. – No Comments – )
  Make sure you build a qualified team around you and try it on a few short outings before making the big jump.
  
  On the other hand, solo driving offers more freedom and flexibility but requires a certain amount of experience in many domains as you will have to solve every challenge that comes your way on your own. Now, if you are coming to the region for the first time, are on your own to do this trip, have no experience with off-road driving in this environment, speak no english or arabic, it goes without saying that renting a car to tackle this trail alone is foolish at best, and I can’t be held responsible for all the troubles you might get yourself into. You’ve been warned !
- Fuel: There are many gas stations along the way, all indicated by gps points. As a general rule I always carry an extra 20L Jerrycan of fuel in case of an emergency (But I have a long range with my car you may not have – plan accordingly). I also refuel whenever I can regardless of how much gas I have left. Always play it safe. Know your car’s range and average fuel consumption based on encountered terrains to avoid surprises. As an example, there is a big gas-mileage difference between my Diesel Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and a 2 door petrol version. Study the trail before venturing out. Look at the distance between each gas station on google earth, check the opening hours of the various stations and if they carry your specified requirements. We have listed them in our daily route breakdown below.
  There is also a substantial consumption difference between driving in 2WD or 4WD mode. Stay in 2WD as much as you can will save you a lot of gas.
- Equipment: Less is more. Why ? Because weight is your enemy.
  We live in a society that thrives on consumption, where marketing gurus will have you feel naked unless you possess everything for anything. Through ads, brochures and reviews, they will lead you to believe that you can’t do in life without the latest, the most, the best, the highest, the biggest and the useless. I, too, at first, felt for it, thinking I needed to look like an explorer to explore, convinced my safety, my comfort, worst, my credibility depended on it. And while most of the inhabitants you will meet while exploring remote areas, thrive with close to nothing, we feel obligated to carry the world with us to just survive. It not only has a cost, it also has consequences. The heavier you are, the harder it gets to move it. It’s called weight versus performance. Or how a simple climb can quickly become an Everest because you took too much useless stuff with you.
  
  Here is a list of what I bring with me.

Camping.
© Neil Walton

Camping is for me one of the best part of the trip. A night under the stars, enjoying a good book by a fire, away from the crowd and the noise… Is easier said than done ! And like everything else, it requires proper planning. As a rule, you should know where your next campsite will be, as you leave the previous one. Do not set your mind on a single option. Instead consider several locations listed on your way to account for potential delays and other complications. Understand the more attractive the site you selected is, the more popular and crowded it may be. Make sure to consider week days and week-ends. A white sandy beach at the end of a beautiful wadi might be a good choice on a Tuesday night, but will most likely be a very crowded party spot on a week-end.
Try to set up camp an hour before sunset. Finding the location, unpacking, getting your tent up in the dark is not as nice, worse can lead to unpleasant surprises.

KEEP THE PLACE CLEAN.
I shouldn’t have to say this, and it should be obvious to anyone. Unfortunately it isn’t. Do not leave anything behind. No one is here to clean up after you !!
Check my tutorials on camping for more informations on the do’s and don’ts and how to leave no trace.

I have tried to list the best potential sites, feel free to improvise if you find a spot you like. In some areas, due to the terrain, your options are minimal, in others, there was just too many possibilities to bother listing them. As it should be obvious, just respect your environment and the people around you.

I shouldn’t have to say this, and it should be obvious to anyone. Unfortunately it isn’t. Do not leave anything behind. No one is here to clean up after you !!

Other activities.
Trekking, climbing, canyoning, etc…
Because there is a lot more to do than just drive. The Al Hajar mountains in particular offer great outdoor opportunities. Bring along with you the required equipment to explore the surrounding wonders. If interested in trekking through the Wadii, you need canyoning equipment, specially if interested in Wadi Awf in Jabal Akhdar. In Wadii Shab and Tiwi, you’ll need to swim your way through. This guide won’t get into the specifics of each activity and the skills and tools you need to bring along. It is understood that if you decide to explore out, you have the experience and ability to do it.

LOCAL HISTORY

Because knowing a little about where you are always helps appreciating what you’re looking at !

Pre-Historical times.

The region’s first history, as we know it, goes all the way back to 135,000 years ago, when the first climate migrants (already!), escaped the prolonged droughts of the African plains they lived on. At the time, the Arabian peninsula was far more hospitable than it is now, and offered better surviving conditions. Crossing a much narrower and shallower Red Sea, the early settlers moved on, some finding relief in what is today the Sultanate of Oman and the UAE. Stone tools dated from 125,000 years ago have been found in the area attesting of their presence.

As shown by other recent archeological discoveries, men flourished in this land. Throughout what we like to call the Stone, Bronze and Iron ages, all the way to the arrival of the first muslim fighters, the region was linked to a complex and sophisticated regional trading network, recognized as a well established outpost within the antique civilizations of the Middle-East, one that never stopped to grow.

During that time tribes of the mountains erected sophisticated architectural structures made of local stones and mud, some as early as 5.500 years ago. Complex Necropolis sites from that era, like the beehive tombs of Al Ayn, are still visible today. In them we have found weapons and jeweleries, as well as potteries from Southern Mesopotamia, confirming the prosperous regional trade activities. Their ability to survive an environment turning more arid with the help of complex irrigation systems, allowed them to settle and prosper, feeding on livestocks or crops like cereals and date. Rich in natural resources, such as copper, the region, know as “Magan” in ancient Mesopotamian writings, (which could mean the copper mountain), exported some early on as far as the Indus river Valley, also confirming their nautical abilities.

With time, the original Persian population was replace by Arab tribes coming from Yemen. And as the population grew, the early settlements turned into fortified towns and ports, looking over fishermen, farmers and merchants.

The Mleiha archeological museum is a fantastic place to find out more about this era. The trail makes a point of stopping there and we encourage you strongly to spend time for a visit.

Islamic times.

The next major cultural shift within the population came with the arrival of the first Muslim fighters in 630 AD led by Amr ibn al’As. The local Arab ruling family in Oman, the Julanda, welcomed the general and his army hoping it would freed them from Persian domination. In 632, thanks to reinforcements send from Medina by Khalifa Abu Bakr, the muslims finally turned victorious at the battle of Dibba (In today’s Fujairah emirate), opening the way for the spread of Islam through the region. As much as local arabs were quick to embrace the new religion, it didn’t take long for the tribes of Oman to branch out with their own version of the prophet’s preachings, called Ibadhism, making it one of the earliest branch of Islam.
Ibadhism’s intent is to remain true to the original preachings, before it was “corrupted” by the third Khalifa Uthman. Concentrated mostly in Oman, where about 75% of the local population still consider itself Ibadhi, the school has been very prolific in regards to islamic law. Under Ibadhi law, local Sheikhs decided to elect their rulers by communal consensus, as opposed to hereditary rules as custom in other muslim teachings of the time. In order to be Imam in Oman, you had to be first nominated by the Ulema (the guardians of the religious doctrine), then receive allegiance from all local Sheikhs, as well as the local population. Due to its isolation, as well as its peaceful ways, this system survived all the way to the middle of the 20th century, and cohabited well with its sunni neighbors of the Emirates.

Opening to the sea.

As every land opened to the sea, Oman and the Emirates made the most of their geographical position. Very early on, as soon as it could safely venture off-shore, local merchants went on to explore new trade opportunities. First concentrated on direct neighboring countries, it then expended to India, Eastern Africa, and as far as China, bringing riches to local merchants.

With the arrival of the Europeans, Oman mostly became an important trading stop on the road to Asia. Here, goods from all over were exchanged, providing great revenues to locals. Combining their own navigating skills with those learned from foreigners, by the late XVII century the Omanis were a naval force to be reckoned with, expending their own territories to part of East Africa, all the way down to Zanzibar, making it for a while their own capital.

By then, they were not alone making their presence felt on the sea. On the other side of Hormuz, the tribes of Sharjah, Umm al Quwain, and Ras al Khaimah, know as the Qawasim pirates, ransomed merchant ships trading around the area. Their presence became such a menace to the business equilibrium of the area, it had to be put to an end by the British navy, taking over the control of the region in the process.

Foreign influences.

The British take over in 1820, of what was then called Oman and soon to be referred to as the Trucial states is the last of a long list of foreign powers controlling this strategic geographical position.

Looking over the straight of Hormuz, not to mention its rich natural resources, the region has always been the prey of numerous foreign powers. From the beginning of time the Persians have had a strong hold on the region. As mentioned above, other Arab tribes came in from Yemen and Medina. In the middle of the tenth century, the Qarmatians Tribes from Eastern Arabia, a little north of present day Qatar, seized control, shortly followed by the Iranian Buyyids dynasty from 967 to 1053, themselves replaced by the Turco-Iranian Seljuk Empire from 1053 to 1154.

Having managed to regain their own destiny in 1154 under the rule of the Nabahni Kings, Oman fell again, this time to European influence, with the arrival of the Portuguese in 1508. They stayed on till 1650, leaving behind the many forts along the coast you see today. Shortly after, Persians will get involved again for a little while, before a second golden age of Omani independence from 1744 till 1820, interrupted again by the British domination.

The great dynasties of Oman.

Ya’ruba dynasty.

In 1648, Iman Sultan ibn Saif, defeated the Portuguese in Muscat, before chasing them all the way to India, taking over most of their colonies in the process. At the time, Nizwa is the capital of the Imamate of Oman. Status reinforced by the erection of a new fortress still visible today. Saif Ibn Sultan, his son, will continue the work of his father, stripping the Portuguese of even more colonies, particularly on the Eastern African coast. The liberation and the following unification of the country, the military conquests, the strength of the Oman navy, have allowed the Imams to negotiate as equals with the other European actors in the region. The new trade agreements are no longer imposed on Oman by force, as the Portuguese had done. Instead the British are now invited to the business table as equals. All of which did bring almost a century of peace and wealth to the nation.

Unfortunately, after the death of Sultan ibn Saif in 1718, the Ya’ruba dynasty and the rest of the country did fall into a succession war the Persian ultimately took advantage of, until the rise of Ahmed ibn Said in 1747.

The Al Bu Said dynasty.

Sultan Tamur bin Turki — Sultan Tamur bin Turku in 1913

The Said dynasty starts with the rise of Ahmed ibn Said who, after expelling the Persians managed to reunite the country again. Despite constant attacks from outside powers, on land or at sea, the Saids kept control over the trade transiting through the straight of Hormuz, and imposed their conditions on all local exchanges. During the reign of Sayyid Said ibn Sultan (1804-1856) Oman expanded so much it actually moved its government to Zanzibar, making it its new official capital. However his death announced the end of a golden age, with two of his sons involved in a new succession dispute. Oman is divided and split between the two. One son taking control of the Sultanate, the other Zanzibar. Not all will be easy from then on for Oman. The Al Bu Said clan, now a royal dynasty suffered the same internecine power struggles, murders and treasons common in all ruling parties. But despite all the in fighting, notably between the Imams of Nizwa and the Sultans from Muscat, the Said family has managed to keep the reins of Oman’s destiny, Sultan Qaboos being the last of them ruling the country today.

Imams and Sultans.

One of the many problems Oman had to overcome was the constant battle for power between the elected Imams residing in Nizwa and controlling the mountains, and the hereditary Sultans rulling Muscat and the coast.The Said dynasty, in an attempt to unify the country had ceased to recognized the Imam of the interior. While the interior tribes refused to consider anyone else than the elected Imam as their legitimate ruler.

This antagonism was multiplied by the discovery of Oil in Oman in the early 1950’s, and the right to grant concessions to foreign contractors. The Sultan was quick to claim his authority over the deals and its revenues, Only to be contradicted by the Imam arguing the oil was on his territories, and as such belonged to him. This dispute elevated in 1955 with the beginning of the Jabal Akhdar wars, when the Sultan send his troops to occupy Nizwa and Ibri, the two Imam’s stronghold. By 1957, the Sultan forces had to withdraw, suffering numerous casualties during repeated ambushes in the mountains. At the time Jabal Akhdar was a very isolated stretch of rocky mountains, and it took the military intervention of British forces, who had taken side for the Sultan, to eradicate the rebellion. Many remarkable ancient villages, like Tanuf, were sadly reduced to complete ruins in the process.

The tribes of the Emirates.

The tribal organization of what is known today as the United Arab Emirates can be divided into two main separate entities. The Qawasim of the north – Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al Quwain, Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah – and the Bani Yas of the South – Abu Dhabi and Dubai. The Qawasim rise to fame came with their prowess on the sea. Fishermen and pearl divers turned pirates, they efficiently disrupted the trade routes around Hormuz for many years, raiding merchant ships until the english finally had to put a stop to it in 1820. The Bani Yas survival, on the other hand, came with the culture of inland desert oases such as Al Ayn or Liwa, and coastal fishing activities in the mangroves of Abu Dhabi. With the English destruction of the main Qawasim ports, Abu Dhabi was able to embrace a much more prominent role at sea, and imposed itself on the pearl trade. This expansion allowed some members of the Bani Yas clan, known as the Al Bu Falasah, lead by the Al Maktoum family to migrate up north to the small port of Dubai, and transformed the then small creek into the commercial force we know today.

Today.

Oman’s destiny changed in 1970 with the arrival of Sultan Qaboos. Taking over his father after a coup, the new Sultan, decided to put all his energy in transforming his country into a modern state. His first task was to reunite the country once and for all. Then with the revenues of oil and natural gas, and the support of the British government began the modernization of the country. New infrastructures, new and more efficient services, Oman slowly began to catch up with its neighbors. It is today a great mix between modernity and tradition.

The other leader changing the destiny of his future nation is Sheikh Zayed of Abu Dhabi. When he takes over from his brother Sheikh Shahkbut in 1966, oil extraction has only begun 4 years before and the British are about to announce their withdrawal from the region. With their exit the region is loosing the protection it desperately needs during those troubled times. With the perspective of instability looming over the Emirate, as it is just beginning to recover from the years of economical hardships created by the downfall of the pearl trade, the new charismatic leader decides to reach out to its neighbor, Sheikh Rashid of Dubai, in an attempt to lay the grounds for a future Emirati federation. It is obvious to him that a stable region benefiting from the riches of oil is in everyone’s interest. After intense negotiations among the local Sheikhs of the Qawasim tribes, the United Arab Emirates are created the 2nd of December 1971. What seemed improbable at the time as proven to be the most stable and prolific union in the Middle-East, generating not only peace and wealth, but a model to be followed.

AL HAJAR MOUNTAINS

Al Hajar mountains, understand in english; the Rocky mountains. Hard to find a more obvious choice of a name to describe this spectacular mountain range. A mix of limestone, ocean crust and earth upper mantle exposed as nowhere else in the world, making this region an geological wonderland.

Located on the eastern corner of the Arabian peninsula, standing tall above an ocean of sand, it began its formation when the old Afro/Arabian plate began to move towards the Asian plate. As a result, the crust and deep mantle of the Indian ocean were pushed upwards over the edge of the tectonic plate. This ongoing obduction and subduction process created a massive structure of various rock formations; ophiolites, metamorphosed ocean sediments, limestones, Hawasina and other exotic sediments piling up vertically above sea level during the late Cretaceous (90 – 75 million years ago), before eroding rapidly, and falling under see level again, where shallow marine sediments began to cover it again.

It’s only 30 million years ago, during the late Oligocene, that a new and still active uplift re-exposed the rocky mountains we see today. All this movement is believed to be related to the separation of the Arabian and African plates, with the opening of the Red Sea, and the resulting shift towards the Eurasian plates, where the Zagros mountain range in Iran erected simultaneously.

Maps will separate the range in two geographical entities; the Eastern Hajar and the Western Hajar, separated by Wadi Samail near Muscat. In reality the true distinction lays geologically between the Musandam Peninsula, also called the Ru’us al Jibal (the head of the mountains) and the rest of the range, starting on the Fujairah Emirate border by Dibbah. The Ru’us al Jabal is mainly composed of Mesozoic carbonates sediments, found barried under sand throughout the rest of the arabic Peninsula, while the rest of the range is a mix of solidified lava from the ocean crust and upper mantle formed deep within the earth called ophiolites, mixed with shallow water sediments and limestones.

THE ROUTE

Day One
Dubai to Mleiha
144 km.

dubai-skyline — Dubai, starting point of our journey

Introduction.

Time to start our Journey and leave Dubai behind. Today’s drive takes you through some of the most stunning natural landmarks in Dubai and Sharjah. Al Qudra lakes, Pink Rock, Big Dune, Camel Rock, Fossil Rock. It also makes a stop at the Mleiha Archeological museum. Time has been spared for you to stop and appreciate each one of them. The Museum being essential in order to understand the importance of the region in Middle-Eastern history.

Recommendations.

Those recommendations, as for the rest of this guide, applies to 4×4. I don’t have the required experience to advise you when it comes to bikes or quads.
Today is a mix of roads, desert tracks and fun dune sections. Deflate your tires to 15 psi as you enter the first desert track near Al Qudra Lakes. No point getting your tires back to normal each time you enter a new road section, they are too small in distance to matter. Just drive on them with caution. There are plenty of gas stations along the way, no need to worry about running out today.
Food wise, I believe you have packed up all you need before heading out. If not you’ll be saved by local food stores along the way.
Tonight you will camp in the desert. Enjoy, but remember to leave no trace !
For those not trusting themselves through dune sections, do not try venturing alone if you don’t have the experience required. No shame in being safe. I advise you to skip today and the following day. Instead you should start the trail at this way-point and enter the mountains directly.

The drive.

Starting Point.
25°08’56.65” N – 55°11’46.23”E
This is our starting point. The beach overlooking one of Dubai’s most famous landmarks, the Burj al Arab. Enjoy the view for a while before taking Zaglaba street on the left, leading you to Jumeirah Beach Road, where you’ll then take right and head towards the gas station.

25°08’50.45” N – 55°11’47.12”E
This is your first gas station, you also have a small food market there for you. Once done, get back on Jumeirah Beach Road and head towards Umm Suqeim Street D 63.

25°07’57.81” N – 55°11’17.06”E
Turn left on Umm Suqeim Street D 63 and stay on that road all the way to the end in Al Qudra.
There will be two more gas stations and food stores along the way. Stop if needed.

24°51’05.69” N – 55°20’41.65”E
This is the end of Road D 63 which is now called Al Qudra street, at the junction with Saih al Salam Street D40 in Al Qudra. Take the second exit at the round-about.

24°51’02.40” N – 55°20’44.14”E
Leave the main road D 40 and take right towards the bike shop, then immediately take left.

24°51’01.46” N – 55°20’46.52”E
Leave the main road and take right on the track leading towards the Al Qudra lakes.

The Al Qudra Lakes

“Al Qudra Lake is a man-made lake in the middle of the Saih Al Salam Desert in Dubai, UAE. The Lake, spread over 10 hectares, is home to more than one hundred species of birds including many migratory birds.” Wikipedia
The lakes used to be a fantastic place to camp and observe wildlife. However, thank to inconsiderate people leaving their trash behind, authorities have decided to ban outdoor activities in the area to preserve it from human stupidity !
Since you can no longer drive through the area. Just park your car and have a look around. Once your are done get back on D 40 heading East.

24°51’28.52” N – 55°22’14.24”E
Leave the road for the dirt track on your right. This is the place to deflate your tires to 15 PSI for the rest of the day.

24°51’23.38” N – 55°22’17.57”E
Take the first desert track on your right. And follow that same track all the way to the Pylons as it goes around the lakes you just visited.

24°50’17.65” N – 55°25’25.58”E
You’ve reached the pylons. Take left and follow the pylon track straight on. (If you’re looking for something more fun and more challenging than the main track, nothing stops you from enjoying the dunes on each side of the pylons – The ones on the right are the best – as long as you keep heading in the same direction.)

24°55’20.17” N – 55°31’06.55”E
Take right.

24°55’09.26” N – 55°31’15.73”E
Take left and follow the road passing underneath E66 Dubai – Al Ayn Road. At the following round-about take the second exit.

24°55’14.91” N – 55°33’38.44”E
Leave the road for the desert track on your left.

24°57’23.96” N – 55°34’32.46”E
At the Y-section keep left on the main track.

24°57’41.76” N – 55°34’58.38”E
You’re entering a small and easy dune section through the Margham desert. Keep heading in the same direction until you reach 24°58’20.90” N – 55°35’38.51”E and the desert track following the edges of the plantations. Take right on that track.

24°58’29.96” N – 55°36’51.69”E
Take left on the road, and pass in front of the industrial area.

24°59’20.00” N – 55°36’57.06”E
Take right on the desert track, then right again, and left at the following fork.

24°59’18.38” N – 55°37’38.66”E
This is the first real desert driving test (unless you have left the pylon track for the dunes earlier). You’re about to enter a small dune section.

Head East towards 24°59’54.13” N – 55°39’39.28”E and the Junction between D40 and Madam Road E44 also know as the Hatta road 44. There you will find a gas station in case you need it, as well as a food store and a “burger” joint (its a place often busy with tourists on their Dune bashing trip to Al Badayer). Get on E44 heading towards Madam.

24°59’45.97” N – 55°39’47.08”E
Get off the Hatta road and follow the exit as it passes underneath the main road. At the round-about on the other side take the first exit. You’re now in Sharjah.

24°59’48.64” N – 55°39’52.60”E
At the end of the tarmac, take left around the school. (I think it is a school)

24°59’54.78” N – 55°40’06.70”E
Take right.

24°59’47.85” N – 55°40’11.81”E
Take left at the junction.

24°59’43.23” N – 55°40’15.91”E
Take left at the junction, then left on tarmac.

25°00’02.02” N – 55°40’15.71”E
Leave the tarmac road and enter right on desert track.

25°00’15.65” N – 55°40’38.88”E
Follow the main track as it bends right.

25°00’14.29” N – 55°40’57.58”E
As you arrive to the farm, take right.

25°00’06.95” N – 55°41’02.64”E
Take left. You’re entering a new dune section as you head East towards Pink Rock at 25°00’50.79” N – 55°43’27.22”E

Have a break, get out of the car and climb up for the better view of the surrounding desert.

After driving around Pink rock, aim for the 2nd of December “cafeteria” by the road at 25°02’26.89” N – 55°43’55.49”E. Cross the road and follow the track on the other side called the Tawi trail. Keep heading East.

Sharjah Desert — The descent down the wadi can be steep. Drive with caution.

25°05’29.66” N – 55°47’27.69”E
From here you can proceed with caution as you drive down the wadi and continue towards the Al Batayey – Al Faya road S149. As you get on the road, you will have to drive to the next U-turn option and come back to 25°05’13.90” N – 55°48’11.18”E on the other side. You will find a place to drink if you want before driving towards big dune.

25°05’13.90” N – 55°48’11.18”E
Leave the tarmac and drive towards big dune. You can climb up if you want for a better view. If not, or after you have come back down, pass the dune on its right as the track heads toward the wadi and follow the edge of the dune ridge heading East.

Big dune Sharjah — …Where some don’t always make it to the top

25°06’47.60” N – 55°49’29.02”E
Climb back up the dunes, and head up to the first rock formation at 25°07’01.70” N – 55°49’36.05”E.

25°06’47.60” N – 55°49’29.02”E
Keep driving through the dunes towards the second rock formation at 25°07’21.97” N – 55°49’38.59”E.

25°08’07.04” N – 55°49’49.10”E
Next rock formation is called Camel Rock.

25°08’27.14” N – 55°50’02.62”E
Keep driving towards the large rock formation in front of you called Fossil Rock until you reach the noticeable track. Take left.

Caution.
When taking left you’re about to go down before climbing back up towards fossil rock pass. The climb back up isn’t easy for everyone. But the real challenge stands on the other side of the pass. That descent is really steep and shouldn’t be taken lightly. If you can’t climb up or don’t feel capable of going through the pass. Take right here and reach the bottom of the wadi safely.

25°08’35.58” N – 55°49’55.36”E
Once down, take right and climb back up towards the Fossil rock pass.

25°08’36.90” N – 55°50’06.78”E
You’re now standing on top of the pass. The drive down is very steep and requires caution. Once down aim towards the houses on your right at 25°08’12.90” N – 55°50’53.67”E. There keep straight on the tarmac on the side of the wall.

Caution.
Again, if you’re having second thoughts about the descent, turn around and get back to 25°08’27.14” N – 55°50’02.62”E. Where you’ll go safely down towards the bottom of the wadi.

25°07’57.08” N – 55°50’54.91”E
Take left and immediately right on dirt track. You’re now driving following the signs towards the Mleiha Archeological Center at 25°07’35.69” N – 55°51’27.56”E. Take the time to visit the museum and the related sites around as it is very informative in regards to the historical meaning of this location. It should take two hours if done right. The Museum has bathrooms and a coffee shop.

As you leave the Museum and its surrounding attractions, drive towards the road E55 at 25°07’41.55” N – 55°52’45.53”E. Take left. In town you will find markets and gas stations.

25°08’05.69” N – 55°52’59.33”E
At the round-about keep straight. On your right is a local super-market for food and water. Refill if you need it.

25°08’11.77” N – 55°53’04.12”E
ADNOC gas station. Refill.

25°08’31.96” N – 55°53’16.15”E
At the round about keep straight. Pass above the road E102 and at the second round-about on the other side keep straight on Road E55.

25°09’39.22” N – 55°53’59.73”E
Take the exit to the round-about. And drive through the underpass. Once on the other side keep straight.

25°09’49.91” N – 55°53’47.17”E
At the round-about keep straight.

25°09’49.91” N – 55°53’47.17”E
At the round about keep straight on tarmac till next round-about. There take first exit on opposite side and enter the desert track. Head straight.

25°10’27.03” N – 55°52’40.33”E
Take right at the junction and follow the desert track towards the pylons.

25°10’58.01” N – 55°52’34.58”E
At the Pylons, take left on the Pylon track.

25°12’10.55” N – 55°50’25.98”E
As the pylons merge into another Pylon lane, head straight onto the dunes for another great desert drive through the sand. You’ll need to make you’re own trace through the dunes.

25°13’04.00” N – 55°48’42.38”E
Go around left the trees and farms towards 25°14’46.59” N – 55°48’01.16”E. And look for a place to camp for the night.

sunset in the desert — Ready for a night in the desert

End of Day 1.