The Oman Trail | Lost & Curious

The Sultanat of Oman.
20 days traveling through stunning mountains, beautiful deserts and beaches, for a magical ride in a geological and cultural wonderland.

Welcome to our extensive Travel Guide / Road Book dedicated to the Sultanate of Oman, where in the span of 20 days you will complete the ultimate trail all around one of the jewels of Arabia. Oman is a very trending tourist destination these days, but no-one will show it to you the way we are. Our trail will not only take you to major natural and cultural landmarks, it will make it a once in a lifetime adventure. Because what matters to us, is the journey. Forget the main crowded destinations, this blog is all about unique places and less traveled back trails.

Oman trail map — The Oman Trail.
A 20 days, 4.000 kms or so loop around Oman.

Available for you is the Google Earth .KMZ file you’ll need to open in Google Earth to visualise the trail, and then transfer as a GPX file on the gps device of your choice.
To open it, go to GOOGLE EARTH, click on FILE, then OPEN, go to DOWNLOADS, and select OT.kmz

Please click on the link below to download the trail.
The Oman Trail

Introduction
- The geological wonders of Oman
- A history of Oman
Basic informations
Ways to travel
Muscat
The route
- Day One – From Muscat to Dibab
- Day Two – From Dibab to Fins
- Day Three – Treking Wadii Shab & Tiwi
- Day Four – From Fins to the Wahibah sands
- Day Five – The Wahibah sands crossing
- Day Six – Around Baar Al Hikman
- Day Seven – The Al Huqf range
- Day Eight – From Ra’s Madraka to Wadi Shuwaymiyah
- Day Nine – Al Dhofar Mountains
- Day Ten – Salalah
- Day Eleven – From Salalah to Tawsinat
- Day Twelve – Crossing Ar Rub Al Khali – part One
- Day Thirteen – Crossing Ar Rub Al Khali – part Two
- Day Fourteen – Crossing Ar Rub Al Khali – part Three
- Day Fifteen – Crossing the Alluvial fan to Yanqul
- Day Sixteen – From Yanqul to Bat
- Day Seventeen – From Bat to Jabal Shams
- Day Eighteen – From Jabal Shams to Jabal Akhdar
- Day Nineteen – Back to Muscat
Conclusion

INTRODUCTION

The Sultanate of Oman. The name alone resonates like an exotic adventure… We first think of Sindbad the sailor and his fellow pirates finding refuge in the many isolated creeks of the coast, tracked down by european warships… The bedu’s caravans traveling through the furnace of the desert on their way to some remote oasis… Or the rugged mountaineers in isolated settlements, cherishing date gardens in a land where water is a rare treasure.

However, what most of us will often miss about Oman, are the marvelous stories the sand of the arid deserts and the exposed rocks of the bare mountains, reveal about our planet’s tumultuous history. Indeed, Oman isn’t just a cultural experience, it is first and foremost a geological paradise. An open book through our past for the curious mind.

Trying to combine all those aspects, we have traced a 20 days, 4.000 kms or so journey. Across Al Hajar mountains, Al Wahibah sands, Al Huqf range, Al Qara mountains of Dhufar and the amazing sand dunes of Ar Rub Al Khali, we will be confronted with a wide spectrum of physical and technical challenges. As we pass through those beautiful and remote natural landscapes, we will learn how it geologically came about, discover their rich local history, and interact with an incredibly hospitable population. Jebal, wadii, forts, aflaj, ruins of old settlements, ancestral date gardens, beehive tombs, mosques, souks, and so much more, await us as we go deeper within a country entrenched in its traditions and ancestral ways…

The following Guide/Road-book tries to combine all the informations you need to venture safely and learn as much as you can about this enchanted land. A GPS ready version will be shortly available for download. Make sure to come back and check it out.

The geological wonders of Oman

Like most of the geologically untrained people coming to Oman, I first ventured out not knowing anything about the significance of what I was witnessing. Yet a simple look at these landscapes immediately called for so many questions. How, when, why this, why that ? I knew right away I was missing out on a lot of great stuff. Curious as I am, I embarked on an overwhelming research on internet, reading way too complex and often conflicting scientific reviews on geology and earth’s evolution, trying to come up with simple answers. During three full weeks I was immersed in my dictionary searching for every name and scientific terms they threw at me. But the more I learned, the more questions I had, and however fascinating it became, I was forced to admit that there was no such thing as a simple answer, or a easy way to explain it to you with words.

Instead, I found and would like to share with you this great video done By Oman Geological Society, which with wimple words, cool animations and beautiful images, illustrates perfectly how wonderful what you are about to see for yourselves on this journey is.

If like me you are eager to know more, I invite you to take the time to investigate further on your own.

A history of Oman.

Pre-Historical times.

Oman first history, as we know it, goes all the way back to 135,000 years ago, when the first climate migrants (already!), escaped the prolonged droughts of the African plains they lived on. At the time, the Arabian peninsula was far more hospitable than it is now, and offered better surviving conditions. Crossing a much narrower and shallower Red Sea, the early settlers moved on, some finding relief in what are today Yemen, the Sultanate of Oman and the UAE. Stone tools dated from 125,000 years ago have been found in the area attesting of their presence.

As shown by other recent archeological discoveries, men flourished in this land. Throughout what we like to call the Stone, Bronze and Iron ages, all the way to the arrival of the first muslim fighters, the area was linked to a complex and sophisticated regional trading network, recognized as a well established outpost within the antique civilizations of the Middle-East, one that never stopped to grow.

During that time, tribes erected sophisticated architectural structures made of local stones and mud, some as early as 5.500 years ago. Complex Necropolis sites from that era, like the beehive tombs of Al Ayn, are still visible today. In the Hilli site in the UAE, we have found weapons and jeweleries, as well as potteries from Southern Mesopotamia, confirming the prosperous regional trade activities. Their ability to survive an environment turning more arid with the help of complex irrigation systems, allowed them to settle and prosper, feeding on livestocks or crops like cereals and dates. Rich in natural resources, such as copper, the region, know as “Magan” in ancient Mesopotamian writings, (which could mean the copper mountain), exported some early on as far as the Indus river valley, also confirming their nautical abilities.

With time, the Persian population was replaced by Arab tribes coming from Yemen. And as the population grew, the early settlements turned into fortified towns and ports, looking over fishermen, farmers and merchants.

Islamic times.

The next major cultural shift within the population came with the arrival of the first Muslim fighters in 630 AD led by Amr ibn al’As. The local Arab ruling family, the Julanda, welcomed the general and his army hoping it would freed them from Persian domination. In 632, thanks to reinforcements send from Medina by Khalifa Abu Bakr, the muslims finally turned victorious at the battle of Dibba, opening the way for the spread of Islam through Oman. As much as local arabs were quick to embrace the new religion, it didn’t take long for them to branch out with their own version of the prophet’s preachings, called Ibadhism, making it one of the earliest branch of Islam.
Ibadhism’s intent is to remain true to the original preachings, before it was “corrupted” by the third Khalifa Uthman. Concentrated mostly in Oman, where about 75% of the local population still consider itself Ibadhi, the school has been very prolific in regards to islamic law. Under Ibadhi law, local Sheikhs decided to elect their rulers by communal consensus, as opposed to hereditary rules as custom in other muslim teachings of the time. In order to be Imam in Oman, you had to be first nominated by the Ulema (the guardians of the religious doctrine), then receive allegiance from all local Sheikhs, as well as the local population. Due to its isolation, as well as its peaceful ways, this system survived all the way to the middle of the 20th century.

Opening to the sea.

As every land opened to the sea, Oman made the most of its geographical position. Very early on, as soon as it could safely venture off-shore, local merchants went on to explore new trade opportunities. First concentrating on direct neighboring countries, it then expended to India, Eastern Africa, and as far as China, bringing riches to local merchants.

With the arrival of the Europeans, Oman became a trading stop on the road to Asia. Here, goods from all over were exchanged, providing great revenues to locals. Combining their own navigating skills with those learned from foreigners, by the late XVII century the Omanis were a naval force to be reckoned with, expending their own territories to part of East Africa, all the way down to Zanzibar, making it for a while their own capital.

By then, they were not alone making their presence felt on the sea. On the other side of Hormuz, the tribes of Sharjah, Umm al Quwain, and Ras al Khaimah, known as the Qawasim pirates, ransomed merchant ships trading around the area. Their presence became such a menace to the business equilibrium of the area, it had to be put to an end by the British Navy, taking over the control of the region in the process.

Foreign influences.

The British take over in 1820, is the last of a long list of foreign powers controlling this strategic geographical position.

Looking over the straight of Hormuz, not to mention its rich natural resources, Oman has always been the prey of numerous foreign powers. From the beginning of time the Persians have had a strong hold on the region. As mentioned above, other Arab tribes came in from Yemen and Medina. In the middle of the tenth century, the Qarmatians Tribes from Eastern Arabia, a little north of present day Qatar, seized control, shortly followed by the Iranian Buyyids dynasty from 967 to 1053, themselves replaced by the Turco-Iaranian Seljuk Empire from 1053 to 1154.

Having managed to regain their own destiny in 1154 under the rule of the Nabahni Kings, Oman fell again, this time to European influence, with the arrival of the Portuguese in 1508. They stayed on till 1650, leaving behind the many forts along the coast you see today. Shortly after, Persians will get involved again for a little while, before a second golden age of Omani independence from 1744 till 1820, interrupted again by the British domination.

The great dynasties of Oman.

Ya’ruba dynasty.

In 1648, Iman Sultan ibn Saif, defeated the Portuguese in Muscat, before chasing them all the way to India, taking over most of their colonies in the process. At the time, Nizwa is the capital of the Imamate of Oman. Status reinforced by the erection of a new fortress still visible today. Saif Ibn Sultan, his son, will continue the work of his father, stripping the Portuguese of even more colonies, particularly on the Eastern African coast. The liberation and the following unification of the country, the military conquests, the strength of the Oman navy, have allowed the Imams to negotiate as equals with the other European actors in the region. The new trade agreements are no longer imposed on Oman by force, as the Portuguese had done. Instead the British are now invited to the business table as equals. All of which did bring almost a century of peace and wealth to the nation.

Unfortunately, after the death of Sultan ibn Saif in 1718, the Ya’ruba dynasty and the rest of the country did fall into a succession war the Persian ultimately took advantage of, until the rise of Ahmed ibn Said in 1747.

The Al Bu Said dynasty.

The Said dynasty starts with the rise of Ahmed ibn Said who, after expelling the Persians managed to reunite the country again. Despite constant attacks from outside powers, on land or at sea, the Saids kept control over the trade transiting through the straight of Hormuz, and imposed their conditions on all local exchanges. During the reign of Sayyid Said ibn Sultan (1804-1856) Oman expanded so much it actually moved its government to Zanzibar, making it its new official capital. However his death announced the end of a golden age, with two of his sons involved in a new succession dispute. Oman is divided and split between the two. One son taking control of the Sultanate, the other Zanzibar. Not all will be easy from then on for Oman. The Al Bu Said clan, now a royal dynasty suffered the same internecine power struggles, murders and treasons common in all ruling parties. But despite all the in fighting, notably between the Imams of Nizwa and the Sultans from Muscat, the Said family has managed to keep the reins of Oman’s destiny, Sultan Qaboos being the last of them ruling the country today.

Imams and Sultans.

One of the many problems Oman had to overcome was the constant battle for power between the elected Imams residing in Nizwa and controlling the mountains, and the hereditary Sultans rulling Muscat and the coast. The Said dynasty, in an attempt to unify the country had ceased to recognized the Imam of the interior. While the interior tribes refused to consider anyone else than the elected Imam as their legitimate ruler.

This antagonism was multiplied by the discovery of Oil in Oman in the early 1950’s, and the right to grant concessions to foreign contractors. The Sultan was quick to claim his authority over the deals and its revenues, only to be contradicted by the Imam arguing the oil was on his territories, and as such belonged to him. This dispute elevated in 1955 with the beginning of the Jabal Akhdar wars, when the Sultan send his troops to occupy Nizwa and Ibri, the two Imam’s strongholds. By 1957, the Sultan forces had to withdraw, suffering numerous casualties during repeated ambushes in the mountains. At the time Jabal Akhdar was a very isolated stretch of rocky mountains, and it took the military intervention of British forces, who had taken side for the Sultan, to eradicate the rebellion. Many remarkable ancient villages, like Tanuf, were sadly reduced to complete ruins in the process.

Today.

Oman’s destiny changed in 1970 with the arrival of Sultan Qaboos. Taking over his father after a coup, the new Sultan, decided to put all his energy in transforming his country into a modern state. His first task was to reunite the country once and for all. Then with the revenues of oil and natural gas, and the support of the British government began the modernization of the country. New infrastructures, new and more efficient services, Oman slowly began to catch up with its neighbours, and became the great mix between modernity and tradition it is today.

BASIC INFORMATIONS

- Languages. Arabic & some English. English will be fine in Muscat, as well as in most hotels, for the rest, particularly in remote areas, you’ll need basic notions of Arabic, or at least an Arabic basics book to help you get out of trouble if needed.
- Visas, CDP, Driving License. The administrative requirements at the border between the UAE and Oman change often. Make sure to check with local authorities for the latests before leaving. What follows is what we know at the time of posting, but there is no guarantee it won’t change tomorrow.
  - You are a GCC citizen: All you need is to show your ID at the border entering Oman.
  - For the rest of us: At the UAE exit border, there is a 35 Dirham exit fee. At the Oman Border, you no longer can show up and get a visa on arrival. Instead you need to apply in advance online the Oman Royal Police website for an unsponsorded visa.
    It’s meant to be pretty simple – Fill in the online form, attach travel documents, then pay the fee through a secure Global Payment Gateway. You’ll then receive your visa and notifications via email.
    The tourist visa fee went up in April last year from OMR5 (Dhs47) to OMR20 (Dhs190). At the same time, the length of stay was increased from 10 days to a month.
    Remember, some nationalities do not require a visa to visit Oman, and some nationalities (like New Zealanders) can obtain a visa free of charge. To find out which visa you’re eligible for, visit the website and click ‘apply for unsponsored visa’. After answering a few questions, it will show which visa types are available to you.
    Regardless of your country of origin, if you are driving a vehicle from outside the GCC, your vehicle will require a Carnet de Passage to enter the UAE, as it will for Oman.
  - Driving License: If you are not from Oman and don’t have an Oman driving license, you can drive or rent a car with the driving license of your country of origin as long as it is still valid. An international driving license is not required but is always a plus.
- Flying. For those of you not leaving in the Sultanat of Oman or the UAE, chances are you will have to fly in to do this trip.
  Not that many international airlines land in Muscat yet. Chances are you’ll have to do a stop over in the Emirates.
  To find out which option is best for you do your research. Here are two links among many to compare.
  Kayak
  Expedia
- Money: The currency in Oman is the Rial, abbreviated OMR.
  - To find out the exchange rate click here.
  - For those coming from the UAE, you can pay in Dirhams in Oman and get your change in Rial.
  - Major credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, but when buying supplies in small food stores in remote villages it is advised strongly to have cash.
- Lodging: 99% of the time you’ll be camping under the stars. Camping is legal without restrictions in Oman. It is very safe and the local population is extremely hospitable. It offers many beautiful sites for you to enjoy the nights.
  Still you have hotel options along the way, some extremely luxurious. As the trail is divided by days, we have listed all available options each days for you in the following route breakdown.
- Food: Again you are traveling in very remote areas. That is not to say there are no places to eat along the way, but most often you’ll be cooking at your campsite. We have listed all the restaurants as well as food stores you may find along the trail.
- When: The region can be extremely hot, and we strongly advise you to plan your trip between the end of November and the end of March. Any other time can be very hot, summer temperatures reaching 50° C on average.
- Weather: Oman weather.
- In case of an emergency: In Oman call 9999
  That being said, while you can get decent coverage in some areas, most of the time you won’t. We strongly recommend you carry with you a satellite phone. As a matter of fact we think stupid and foolish to venture out without one.

WAYS TO TRAVEL

al hajar mountains — A 4×4 with room and good fuel range.

This is first and foremost an off-road adventure. When I first ventured out with the intention to create this trail, I did it with a 4×4. Being an expat living in Dubai at the time, taking my own Jeep was the obvious choice. It is the “easiest”, most comfortable and fastest option available by far! As such, the selection of the various tracks that compose this journey, was made with that type of vehicle specifications and requirements in mind.

I’m pretty sure most of you will venture in the same manner, but there are other options available to you. Depending on your preferences, your motivations, your experience, and the physical condition you are in, a quad or a motorcycle, are also very rewarding options.

Whatever your mean of travel, you must clearly understand and be well prepared for the specifics your choice implies. No matter what you decide, and the advantages it may offer you, they all include risks you cannot ignore. There is no such thing as a 100% trouble free adventure, and that’s precisely what makes it an “adventure”. The best way to minimize those risks is to be well prepared. How ? Do everything possible to avoid trouble before hand, and be sufficiently self reliable to get yourself out of trouble if necessary.

Finally, may you be a “through” traveler looking to complete the trail in its entirety in one journey, or explore a selected part at a time, or may you decide to follow the trail as described starting clock wise or do it in reverse, is all up to you.

Be prepared.
- Physically: No matter how you want to complete this journey, you must be sufficiently fit to survive any potential physical activity performed in this harsh and unforgiving environment. The heat, the lack of water, the isolation, are factors not to be taken lightly. Do not under-estimate the risks, thinking all will be just fine because you might be sitting comfortably in the air-cooled interior of a car. There will be many occasions for you to expose yourself and it can be brutal if not acclimated and ready. Again, to make it easier on you, plan your trip during the “cooler” months of the year, between late November and March.
- Mentally: This trail offers physical and technical challenges. Even though it was never designed with adrenaline junkies in mind, it may put you under stress every once in a while, depending on your level of experience. Be ready to reach out of your comfort zone now and then. Know yourself, observe, take your time and trust your judgement.
- Know your way: There are no maps or road atlas available in the region outlining the various dirt roads, trails or tracks you will follow for this journey. To safely navigate, you will need to download the routes (We strongly advise you to purchase the file to save you the time and effort – very soon ready for download in our boutique section) and all other pertinent navigation points onto a GPS device. To do so will required the use of softwares like Google Earth or Gamin’s Basecamp, etc.
  However do not rely entirely on your GPS, study the trail on Google Earth as much as you can. You should almost have it memorized; its path, the points of interests, the gas stations and other food supplies stores, the escape routes, etc… Your first asset is your personal knowledge. It will be extremely precious when confronted with unexpected alterations and roadblocks, may they be the result of natural degradations or human “progress”. I will try to update this guide with the latest evolutions based on the feedback I get from fellow travelers and authorities, and offer alternate options, but there is always a risk to be confronted with the unexpected, and you should be able to “improvise” on your own.
- Be technically savvy: Make sure your vehicle is in good working order before leaving. If you use your own, have it checked by a professional mechanic, and perform all due required service. To keep it in good order during your trip, drive/ride it with caution at all times. Your car or bike breaking down on its own is very unlikely, the odds of you breaking it by reckless driving, are unfortunately much higher. In case something is to happen, you must know how to diagnose the problem, and have the parts and the skills to fix it on the spot. If you are renting your vehicle, make sure it is from a company you can trust and offers good assistance even in the most remote areas.

Driving.
Driving through the Al Hajar mountains.
- 4×4: As outlined above, a real 4×4 is the obvious choice. It has the off-road capacity to take you everywhere safely on this trail, no matter how technical it may get.
  - Tires: All terrain tires are a minimum if you want to avoid punctures. Road and sand tires are to be avoided. Have a spare in good condition with you and a puncture kit for emergencies. (Learn how to use it before you’ll need it)
    If you are renting a 4×4 ask for AT (All Terrain) tires with your 4×4.
  - Enhancements: No modifications are necessary for this trip. I belong to a very small group, that believes a 4×4 is best kept in its original specifications. Driving a vehicle well thought of by experienced engineers and tested thoroughly by qualified technicians, sounds safer to me than an “artistically” modified “beast” assembled by a local backstreet garage. To each its own !
  If you don’t have one, you rent one at the following locations listed on a great article from a great blog on Oman I invite you to consult.
  Beyondtheroute.com
  Other rental companies are:
  Nomad tours. (They offer true off-roading packages and insurances)
  Nomadic desert camp (Renting 4×4 but desert off-roading is at your own risk, understand not covered by insurance)
- Motorcycle / Quad: It’s not the size that matters, some complete the Dakar race on 125cc machines. It’s how you drive it and its fuel autonomy that matters (The Ar Rub al Khali spans distances of over 500 kms between refueling). Keep it light, some of the climbs are really really steep and too much baggage will really drag you down.
  Listed on the following routes are all the fuel options along the way. Plan your fuel needs accordingly.
I know nothing more thrilling than exploring the desert on a bike.
Driving tips:
if you are not familiar with off-road driving we strongly suggest you spend time reading our beginners guide to off-road driving. However, If you have no experience and plan on doing this alone, you are looking for a lot of troubles. More on solo driving below.
- Basic rules: First and foremost you must follow and stay on the indicated or visible track.
  A – because it’s the best way not to get lost,
  B – because the mountain terrain is way too hazardous to allow you some improvisation safely.
  A common mistake is to take a wrong path, and then decide to “cut through” to get back on the right one, instead of safely going backwards to the point where you took the wrong turn. What seemed like a short cut is 9 times out of ten a recipe for disaster.
  C – Do not enter a portion of the trail if you don’t feel capable of passing through. Turn around when you still can. There is no shame in knowing your limits. A u-turn under stress on a narrow track shouldering a cliff is not a fun nor safe experience, reversing is even worse. When in doubt, get out of your car and walk it first to make sure you know what you are getting yourself into. Then take your decision. There are many alternatives available for you on the trail.
  
  Most of the trails you will drive on are vital to local villagers and as such are in general well maintained… That is until it rains. Rain running down mountain slopes will follow the easiest path available to reach the wadi below. That path is your trail. In doing so, it will create trenches, gulleys and displace rocks of all sizes. It may even take down entire stretches of the trail if passing through it perpendicularly. For some, it is when the real fun begins, for others this is when unwanted complications will slow you down.
- Sand: Check out this dedicated post.
- Wadii: A wadi is a river bed. Most of the time it is dry. But that can change in a matter of minutes in case of rain. Flash floods are a real hazard in this region and claim the lives of careless travelers every year.
  Do not enter a narrow wadi if it is raining or the sky is menacing.
  When confronted with water crossing. Before entering, first check how deep the water is and how loose the ground underneath it is. In most cases it is very shallow as seen on the picture below and doesn’t require any particular skills. However, when in doubt, get out of the car, cross it on foot first all the way and back before engaging your car. If the water is deep enough to reach your brakes, once on the other side, press a couple times on your brake pedal to make sure they have not been affected by the maneuver.
  Do not attempt to cross during a flash flood. Instead, wait for the rain to stop and the water to go down, (it can happen rapidly and is well worth the wait), or simply turn around and find another way.
- Mud: Your chance of encountering mud on this trip is very slim. It only happens after a brief shower and usually dries rapidly. It is very similar to driving in sand. Good traction, the right gear and momentum is what matters.
  When confronted with mud, stop, assess the obstacle, deflate your tires for increase traction if you deem helpful, select the right gear combination and enter. Do not engage too fast by fear of getting stuck in the middle, chances are you will slide, spin your wheels and get stuck or worse hit too hard an obstacle you couldn’t see at first underneath and break something.
  If stuck in mud. Either get towed out if you are in a group, or get your Maxtrax or winch or a shovel if you are alone. If you have nothing like that with you, (then you are ill prepared !) pile rocks you can find around you underneath your tires to get better traction.
- Driving at night: Besides the obvious safety issues, what is the point ? You are on this trail to admire the landscape.
  The main reason why you might be tempted to drive at night is most likely to be because you want to reach a pre-determined campsite and you’re late. Don’t ! In case you realize you are not going to make it on time, look around you and find a suitable space while it is still daytime. There are plenty along the way. Just don’t settle for a spot in the middle of a wadi bed. As mentioned before, flash-floods are a serious threat to your life.
- Solo or in a group ?
  It used to be a choice, but lately the authorities patrolling the borders of Yemen and Saudi Arabia are becoming more and more present and don’t see you venturing alone in those areas as a good thing. As such they will turn away solo drivers. (better be fluent in arabic if you want to argue) They may also re-route convoys based on safety concerns. It doesn’t mean the area isn’t safe, or that you can’t do it alone. It just means that it is not encouraged because they don’t want to have to come rescue you if you get stranded.
  
  A group is almost always a safer way to enjoy this or any other adventurous endeavor. But it requires more organization and more discipline than going away on your own. When planning a group “expedition”, there is a lot more at stake than group chemistry. Being good friends is great, but it is not enough. Everybody must bring something to the team. Being responsible and in charge of a needed skill. May it be driving, navigation, mechanic, cooking, language, etc… A group of 10 drivers where nobody knows how to fix a flat tire, understands a map, doesn’t speak a word of arabic or ever started a fire, is not a team but a moving traffic jam looking for trouble.
  
  A team needs a leader, a person with authority that can open the road and guide others according to everyone’s potential. It takes a lot of experience and psychology to be a leader. It also needs a second “in command” sweeping at the back of the convoy, helping those in trouble. Communication among all team members is key. (However, it be noted for those coming from Dubai, that Walky-talkies are illegal in Dubai and can be confiscated at the border when returning from your trip. I had mine confiscated after a meticulous 1 hour search of my vehicle at 3 AM in the morning at the border. – No Comments – )
  Make sure you build a qualified team around you and try it on a few short outings before making the big jump.
  
  On the other hand, solo driving offers more freedom and flexibility but requires a certain amount of experience in many domains as you will have to solve every challenge that comes your way on your own. Now, if you are coming to the region for the first time, are on your own to do this trip, have no experience with off-road driving in this environment, speak no english or arabic, it goes without saying that renting a car to tackle this trail alone is foolish at best, and I can’t be held responsible for all the troubles you might get yourself into. You’ve been warned !
- Fuel: There are many gas stations along the way, all indicated by gps points. The only section where gas will be an issue is when crossing Ar Rub al Khali, where you’ll need to carry extra. As a general rule I always carry an extra 20L Jerrycan of fuel in case of an emergency (But I have a long range with my car you may not have – plan accordingly). I also refuel whenever I can regardless of how much gas I have left. Always play it safe. Know your car’s range and average fuel consumption based on encountered terrains to avoid surprises. As an example, there is a big gas-mileage difference between my Diesel Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and a 2 door petrol version. Study the trail before venturing out. Look at the distance between each gas station on google earth, check the opening hours of the various stations and if they carry your specified requirements. We have listed them in our daily route breakdown below.
  There is also a substantial consumption difference between driving in 2WD or 4WD mode. Stay in 2WD as much as you can will save you a lot of gas.
- Equipment: Less is more. Why ? Because weight is your enemy.
  We live in a society that thrives on consumption, where marketing gurus will have you feel naked unless you possess everything for anything. Through ads, brochures and reviews, they will lead you to believe that you can’t do in life without the latest, the most, the best, the highest, the biggest and the useless. I, too, at first, felt for it, thinking I needed to look like an explorer to explore, convinced my safety, my comfort, worst, my credibility depended on it. And while most of the inhabitants you will meet while exploring remote areas, thrive with close to nothing, we feel obligated to carry the world with us to just survive. It not only has a cost, it also has consequences. The heavier you are, the harder it gets to move it. It’s called weight versus performance. Or how a simple climb can quickly become an Everest because you took too much useless stuff with you.
  
  Here is a list of what I bring with me.

Camping.
Camping in the desert

Camping is for me one of the best part of the trip. A night under the stars, enjoying a good book by a fire, away from the crowd and the noise… Is easier said than done ! And like everything else, it requires proper planning. As a rule, you should know where your next campsite will be, as you leave the previous one. Do not set your mind on a single option. Instead consider several locations listed on your way to account for potential delays and other complications. Understand the more attractive the site you selected is, the more popular and crowded it may be. Make sure to consider week days and week-ends. A white sandy beach at the end of a beautiful wadi might be a good choice on a Tuesday night, but will most likely be a very crowded party spot on a week-end.
Try to set up camp an hour before sunset. Finding the location, unpacking, getting your tent up in the dark is not as nice, worse can lead to unpleasant surprises.

KEEP THE PLACE CLEAN.
I shouldn’t have to say this, and it should be obvious to anyone. Unfortunately it isn’t. Do not leave anything behind. No one is here to clean up after you !!

I have tried to list as many potential sites as I could, feel free to improvise if you find a spot you like. In some areas, due to the terrain, your options are minimal, in others, there was just too many possibilities to bother listing them. As it should be obvious, just respect your environment and the people around you.

Other activities.
Trekking, climbing, canyoning, etc…
Because there is a lot more to do than just drive. The Al Hajar mountains in particular offer great outdoor opportunities. Bring along with you the required equipment to explore the surrounding wonders. If interested in trekking through the Wadii, you need canyoning equipment, specially if interested in Wadi Awf in Jabal Akhdar. In Wadii Shab and Tiwi, you’ll need to swim your way through. Finally, to take advantage of the Majlis Al Jinn Cave you need the ropes and other specific equipment to go down and back. This guide won’t get into the specifics of each activity and the skills and tools you need to bring along. It is understood that if you decide to explore out, you have the experience and ability to do it.

THE ROUTE

Muscat

(I should call it day 0, because you’re not yet on the trail. This day should be spend preparing yourselves – Arriving in Muscat, getting your rental car if needed, buying food and water, and visit as much as you can in Muscat before heading out tomorrow for what will officially be your first day – you’ll have a second chance at the visit at the end of the journey if you can’t see it all this time around.)

The Muscat you see today, began its expansion in 1970. Before that, the small port (Muscat in arabic means anchorage) would find comfort behind its walls and surrounding mountains and close its access at night. Inside the gates of Al Bab Al Mathaib, Al bab Al Kabir and Al Bab Al Saghir, you had to use your own lantern to walk around at night. The old town dates back to the first century BC. It will remain a quiet fishing harbor until the XV century when its deeper waters attracted the bigger merchant ships looking for a safe place to land on the coast. That is exactly what will bring the Portuguese to the area a century later, turning Muscat into a well protected naval outpost for their boats. The forts they build on each side of the bay, the Mirani fort, completed in 1587 and the Jalali fort finished in 1588 are still here to remind us of their presence. (you can’t visit them however)

Al Muttrah is the most visited area of Muscat, and shows how the authorities managed to mix in a pleasant manner old and modern buildings, keeping the authenticity of the place intact.

I recommend you spend time here and visit the Omani French Museum, (Open in the morning only, Sat to Wed.) Built for Ghaliah bint Salim, niece of Sultan Said bin Sultan, this remarkable building was offered to Paul Attavi, first french Consul in Oman in 1894, by Faisal bin Turki al Said. The other interesting site to visit is the Bait al Zubair house on Al Shaidiya street. (open from Sat. to Thur. 9H30 am to 1pm and 4pm to 7pm) Here you see collections of local costumes, jewels, arms, as well as a replica of a traditional Omani village in its park.

You should also visit the old souk. It has been modernized yet still feels authentic, (not as much as the one you will see in a few days in Nizwa, but nevertheless a great place to find true local produce and goods.) The other point of interest in Muttrah is Bait al Baranda, (open from Sat. to Thru. From 9am to 1pm and 4pm to 6pm) where you can study the geological and anthropological history of Muscat.

Saved for last, the main attraction in Muscat is the new Sultan Qaboos grand mosque. (open to non Muslims Mon. to Thur. 9am to 12am)

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque © Matteo Columbo travel

Your options for the night.

Either spend the night in a Hotel, camp in town or leave Muscat after your tour, and reach the beaches further down the coast for a first night in the Bandar al Khiran. (Consider the date you’re starting your trip on. If it’s a week-end – Thursday or Friday night here -, forget about the latter option as it will be packed with people enjoying this heavenly spot on their day off)

Local Hotels

There are plenty of hotels in Muscat for you to choose.
I suggest you check Booking.com for a better idea as I can’t list them all.

I recommend the Ibis Hotel. It’s clean, comfortable and reasonably priced.

For those of you on a bigger budget, you also have the Crowne Plaza Hotel on the beach, or the Shangri-la Barr al Jissa Resort down the coast, and if the sky is your limit, the famous Al Bustan Palace hotel further along.

Campsites

The second option is to camp in town on one of the local beaches. Again consider the day of the week. Week-ends can be busy here too.

Ras Al Hamra beach 23°38’32.19” N – 58°29’54.68”E is a good option, tuck in a little cove. Or The Qurum beach 23°36’28.52” N – 58°26’11.78”E with its extended stretch of sand offers a broader and quieter choice if on a week-end.

Now for a truly stunning site, but again to be avoided on week-ends (Even though I have listed a harder to reach cove that is most of the time deserted regardless of the day) you can leave Muscat and drive down the coast to the Bandar al Khiran. If that is your choice, follow the directions starting below with the Day 1 drive.

Day One
Muscat to Dibab
160 km.

Introduction.

Time to start our Journey and leave Muscat behind. Today you will have a first taste of the Al Hajar mountains, (See a more detailed description below) its Jebal and wadii. On the menu is the Ra’s al Khiran, a magnificent cove with turquoise waters, Wadi Huyfahd, the geological treasures of Wadi Salil, the ancient fort of Quriyat, Wadi al Dayqa and its dam, and at the end of the day one of Oman most beautiful sites, Wadi Al Abriyyin, where you’ll be able to dive in its fresh water pools, before a night on a white sandy beach facing the Indian Ocean.

The Al Hajar Mountains.

Al Hajar mountains, understand in english; the Rocky mountains. Hard to find a more obvious choice for a name to describe this spectacular mountain range. A mix of limestone, ocean crust and earth upper mantle exposed as nowhere else in the world, making this region a geological wonderland.

Located on the eastern corner of the Arabian peninsula, standing tall above an ocean of sand, it began its formation when the old Afro/Arabian plate moved towards the Asian plate. As a result, the crust and deep mantle of the Indian ocean were pushed upwards over the edge of the tectonic plate. This ongoing obduction and subduction process created a massive structure of various rock formations; ophiolites, metamorphosed ocean sediments, limestones, Hawasina and other exotic sediments piling up vertically above sea level during the late Cretaceous (90 – 75 million years ago), before eroding rapidly, and falling under see level again, where shallow marine sediments began to cover it again.

It’s only 30 million years ago, during the late Oligocene, that a new and still active uplift re-exposed the rocky mountains we see today. All this movement is believed to be related to the separation of the Arabian and African plates, with the opening of the Red Sea, and the resulting shift towards the Eurasian plates, where the Zagros mountain range in Iran erected simultaneously.

Maps will separate the range in two geographical entities; the Eastern Hajar – Al Hajar Ash Sharqi – and the Western Hajar – Al Hajar Al Gharbi -, separated by Wadi Samail near Muscat. In reality the true distinction lays geologically between the Musandam Peninsula, also called the Ru’us al Jibal (the head of the mountains) and the rest of the range, starting on the Fujairah Emirate border by Dibbah. The Ru’us al Jabal is mainly composed of Mesozoic carbonates sediments, found barried under sand throughout the rest of the arabic Peninsula, while the remaining part the range is a mix of solidified lava from the ocean crust and upper mantle formed deep within the earth called ophiolites, mixed with shallow water sediments and limestones.

Recommendations.

There are plenty of gas stations along the way today. The drive off-road is fairly easy, I recommend to deflate your tires to 20/25 psi for cars once you leave the tarmac for the first time and keep it that way all day. (No point re-inflating each time you get back on the road, the stretches of tarmac are short. Just drive with caution at all times). The distance is not very long so you can stop often and enjoy the beauty around you.

The drive.

Starting Point.
23°36’44.50” N – 58°35’37.83”E
Those are the coordinates of the round-about facing the old town mall. From here take on Al Saidiya Road going up towards Al Bustan.

23°35’24.84″N – 58°35’58.77″E
You have a gas station on your left.

23°34’03.00″N – 58°36’29.17″E
At the round-about take right on An Nuzhah st.
On your left at the round-about is the famous Al Bustan Palace hotel. (My wife would call it your last chance at a decent place to go to the bathroom for a long long while!)

23°33’38.32″N – 58°35’49.11″E
Exit An Nuzhah St., pass underneath An Nuzhah St. unto Qantab Rd.

23°33’25.06″N – 58°35’56.89″E
Turn right on the small road climbing up.

23°33’10.62″N – 58°35’58.82″E
You’re about to leave the tarmac for a dirt trail for a short while. No need to deflate yet or engage in 4-wheel-drive.

23°33’21.59″N – 58°34’05.00″E
You’re back on tarmac. Take a left on Tiwi Rd. all the way until the first round-about.

23°31’25.94″N – 58°38’01.00″E
At the round-about take right on the first exit.

23°30’29.78″N – 58°39’33.69″E
At the Y intersection, you have two options. Taking left towards the beautiful Ra’s al Khiran, or take right and follow our day trail towards the wadi.
I strongly advise you to go check the coves, but if you want to skip the diversion click here.

The Ra’s al Khiran diversion.

Ra’s & Bandar al Khiran form a secluded cove with coral reefs, ideal for swimming, snorkeling and diving. It is also a beautiful place to camp, and I have listed it as an option for your first night in Muscat if you don’t want to sleep in a hotel.
If interested in the cove, and you should, take left at the Y junction, then the first right, and left again at the following Y junction. Follow that road.

23°30’49.55″N – 58°41’02.34″E
Track leading to a quiet campsite in an isolated cove. Only take it if you plan on camping there. Otherwise stay on the main road.

To reach the camp site:
On your right is a construction workers compound. On your left is a smaller unit. Enter the dirt track on your left pass in front of the building, cross the large dirt field on its right, and enter the track starting on its left corner.
At the first Y junction, take the smaller track on your left. At the next T-junction keep straight. Next Y junction take right. Stay on that track on the way to the beach.
Do the trip backwards to come back to the road.

23°30’49.55″N – 58°41’02.34″E
If not interested in camping there, keep straight on the main road all the way to Al Khiran. You will pass several coves on the way.

23°30’15.21″N – 58°43’55.00″E
To access the cove take left.

23°30’52.25″N – 58°44’31.44″E
Leave the main track for the dirt track on your left. You’ll see a small parking at the top, before the track goes down towards the cove. It’s a bit steep but nothing your car can’t handle. If you’re only visiting and don’t plan on camping for the night, you can park up and walk down.
Once down get back the way you came all the way to 23°30’29.78″N – 58°39’33.69″E and get back on the main route.

End of the Ra’s al Khiran diversion.

23°30’29.78″N – 58°39’33.69″E
Take right at the Y section, then right again at the following Y section, then right on the main road.
Keep straight on that main road.

23°30’00.85″N – 58°39’52.29″E
This is where the fun begins. You’re now entering your first wadi. Time to lower your tire pressure to 20/25 psi for better traction and comfort.

23°29’14.03″N – 58°39’54.17″E
At the Y junction, take right.

23°25’57.52″N – 58°39’22.33″E
You’ve reach the small hamlet of Ash Shiqayri, stay left on the main track at the T junction.

23°26’00.36″N – 58°41’06.14″E
You’ve reach the small hamlet of Al Khityah, stay right on the main track at the T junction, re-entering wadi Hyufahd.

23°24’29.66″N – 58°41’43.00″E
At the y junction, stay right. Follow the main track along the wadi.

23°22’40.17″N – 58°40’48.80″E
As you reach the top of the pass, park along the side for a great photo.

Al Hajar mountains near muscat — Your first taste of the Al Hajar Ash Sharqi… A subtle mise en bouche before the high plateaus of Salmah tomorrow.

23°22’20.77″N – 58°40’33.45″E
At the Y Junction take left towards Al Silil. Once you reach the road, take right towards the main road Highway 17.
You’re about to be on tarmac for a short while. It is too short to bother re-inflating your tires. However, just drive with caution at a top speed of 80 km/h on Highway 17. Put your warnings on to inform others.

23°21’31.86″N – 58°40’41.42″E
Pass over the Highway on the bridge in front of you, and enter on the other side towards Sur.

23°14’51.62″N – 58°47’15.65″E
Exit the Highway, get to the round-about and pass over the Highway till the next round-about on the other side. Take the first exit on your right. Drive all the way till the T-Junction. At the T-Junction take right and stay left on the dirt track leading towards the wadi.

You’re about to enter Wadi Salil. If you re-inflated your tires before getting on the Highway 17, time to deflate again to 20/25 psi.

This Wadi is of high geological interest. Boards along the way explain the various stone formations seen through out.

23°15’12.85″N – 58°47’31.96″E
You are now entering Wadi Salil. Follow the main track all the way through.
Caution: Wadi are subject to flash floods. You should not enter in case of rain, as you could be flushed away.
I will not repeat this at the entrance of every wadi, I assume that by now it is understood.

23°15’45.45″N – 58°53’20.42″E
This is the end of the wadi, you’re now entering the small town of Quriyat or Qurayyat. Keep straight left at the Y-Junction.

Quriyat

The small coastal village of Quriyat comes to life in the early morning hours as local fishermen take off to sea, and when they return a few hours later to unload their catches on the beach. (This can be said of every coastal village you will pass on the long coast of Oman). Beside fishing, the area was also known in the past for its horses, raised and exported by local merchants, which brought extra wealth to the town. That was until the Portuguese, lead by Alphonso Albuquerque, raided the town in August 1508 and set it ablaze. Keeping the town under their rule, holding the inhabitants captive, the Portuguese were finally ousted by Imam Nasir Ibn Sultan Al Yurabi in 1648. It is under his rule that the fort was built. Other sources claim it was build by Sayyid Saeed bin Khalfan al Busaidi some two hundred years ago. As always finding out the goods about local architecture can be tricky.
When the government decided to renovate the fort, it transformed it into a museum displaying authentic Omani historical artifacts and handicrafts, as well as books. Rooms have been refurnished to show you how it used to be.

23°15’51.93″N – 58°53’47.32″E
Take right at the junction, leaving the Wadi bed to enter the town. Follow that street (Al Musalla St.) all the way till its end, and turn left in Al Hesn St. (I’m noting down the street names for reference, but they are not often marked, and not always in english. So don’t try too hard to find them. Just Turn left) Having a google earth print out of the various towns along the way always help if you don’t have downloaded the GPS trail.
Once on Al Hesn St. stay on that main street towards the town Fort.

23°15’55.05″N – 58°54’56.40″E

This is the old town fort. Park in front and have a tour. It has been recently renovated. Opening hours are week-days from 8h30 to 14h30. At the time of writing their was no admission fee. A local guide was offering a brief tour rewarded by your generosity, as it is often the case in smaller cultural attractions.

From the fort drive East towards the beach. Once at the beach turn right, pass the small Harbor, follow the road right towards Al Hesn St.

23°15’21.04″N – 58°54’37.72″E
At the T-Junction, take left on Al Hesn St.

23°14’34.46″N – 58°54’11.21″E
You have a gas station where you should refill. (There will be two more options for you before you enter the wadii)

23°13’34.56″N – 58°53’40.73″E
Second gas station, this time on the other side of the road.

23°12’37.52″N – 58°52’12.00″E
At the T-Junction turn left. A third gas station is on your left.

23°12’14.34″N – 58°52’39.00″E
At the round-about, take the second exit, to pass above the Highway 17. On the other side, at the round-about take the first exit on your right.

23°11’02.09″N – 58°53’13.75″E
At the T-Junction, take right.

23°09’59.17″N – 58°52’06.00″E
At the T-Junction, take left. You are on your way to Wadi Al Dayqa.

23°08’01.45″N – 58°53’43.30″E
Two choices. Either take left on the dirt track to reach Wadi Al Dayqa, or stay on the road towards Wadi Al Dayqua Dam and Al Mazan castle. If you choose to go to the dam and castle, you can come back to this point and then go on the wadi, or catch up later at the end of the wadi as described below.

Wadi Dayqa Dam diversion.

You decided to go check the dam and its reservoir lake, as well as the castle. Follow this road all the way to:

The Dam

23°05’41.52″N – 58°51’04.37″E
Take right towards the gate and follow the sign to the parking. Once done admiring the dam, come back to this point and turn right towards the town, staying on the main road curbing to the left. Cross Al Mazari, then the wadi, by now you can see the castle on the hill top. As you arrive at the T-Junction next to the local school, take left. Stay on this road, at the Y-Junction in front of the house with the “elaborate” stain glass windows, take left towards the castle, the left again at the next cross road. The castle is straight in front.

The Al Mazan Castle.

23°05’02.50″N – 58°52’04.01″E
This castle fort is in ruins, and cannot really be visited. But is still interesting to see. It reveals an organization you will see again and again throughout the mountains of Oman. A Hamlet located on the edge of a wadi, with its palm date gardens by the water, overlooked by a fort on a hilltop, protecting it and the mud brick houses surrounding it. Inside the fort is often found a well and a mosque, in case people had to found refuge and sustain a siege. Further along the wadi, on other hilltops, watch towers here to alert the inhabitants about coming dangers.

Once done with the castle you can backtrack to the original wadi entrance, or get back to the road you just left, turn and go down towards the wadi, cross it, then back up on the dirt track called Al Ya road (there is no sign indicating the name anywhere).

Stay on that main dirt track till you reach 23°04’59.62″N – 58°55’01.76″E.
I strongly advise you to go back to the entrance of the wadi, before the diversion. It’s a bit rocky at times, but well worth the drive.

End of the dam diversion.

If you decided to skip the dam.

Wadi Dayqa.

23°08’01.45″N – 58°53’43.30″E

You have a dirt track on your left leading to Wadi Al Dayqa. (if you are coming back from the dam, the track is logically on your right). There is a gate closing the access, but there is plenty of space on the side for you to pass anyway. (at least at the time of writing. If the access is for some reason blocked for you, turn around, drive back to the T-Junction 23°09’59.17″N – 58°52’06.00″E and take right towards Hayl Al Ghaf. Follow the road all the way to the wadi and enter there. It’s a great drive, but a bit more technical than the proposed section)
Pass on the side and carry on. As you reach the large wadi about 700 meters later, turn right and follow the main track. You’ll see the remnants of an old falaj on the side of the mountain on your right. There will be a few water crossings along the way, most if not all very shallow.

23°05’56.04″N – 58°54’20.29″E
Time to exit the wadi for the dirt track on your left.

23°04’59.62″N – 58°55’01.76″E.
You’ve reach the connection with the dam diversion. Keep straight.

23°04’50.38″N – 58°55’31.74″E.
You have a small faint track going straight as the main track curbs left, stay on the main track going left.

23°05’11.75″N – 58°56’58.57″E.
You’re reaching a road. Do not get on that road. Stay on the dirt track on the right side of the road as it goes up and turns right. Follow that track.

23°03’52.84″N – 58°57’07.78″E.
At the Y-Junction take right.

23°03’02.48″N – 58°56’50.24″E.
At the cross road, take left. In front of you is a Hamlet called Fayq.

23°03’07.14″N – 58°57’10.00″E.
At the Y-Junction take left, going down the wadi is also an option but more complicated.

23°03’22.70″N – 58°57’49.62″E.
Keep straight.

23°02’42.93″N – 58°58’33.94″E.
You’ve just passed a school on your right, down on your left is Wadi Al Abriyyin. Keep straight to reach the village of Al Suwayh and its clear water pools. You will have to come back to this point once done to follow the route.

The track will take you to a dead end at 23°01’56.76″N – 58°59’29.73″E. Park where you can without disturbing the local villagers. You’ll see a series of pools where you can take a swim. Ropes have been set for you to climb out of the pools. Be very careful and check first before jumping in that the ropes are there, and that you are physically capable of pulling yourself up. Each year, tourists end-up dead in such pools because they could not climb out of them. Also take the time to admire the village.

23°03’22.70″N – 58°57’49.62″E.
You are back at the junction, after spending time at the pools. Turn right down towards the wadi bed, passing through the small village called Al Batha. You’ll follow the track at the bottom of Wadi Al Abriyyin all the way till the end. Again you may have to cross the water now and then. It’s shallow and doesn’t present any real difficulties unless a major rain storm happened the days before !

At the end of the wadi, you’ll pass underneath the Highway 17. Right after you’ll reach a road. Take right on that road taking you to Dibab, and then the beach. Stay on that road as it follows the coast.

The Hawyat Najm park.

23°02’28.97″N – 59°04’23.15″E.

At this T-Junction turn right. This dead end will take you to the sink hole, locally called the Hawyat Najm Park, which means the meteor fall park. Now that name is misleading, as no meteor fell here. The hole is due to natural erosion of the limestone and is connected to the sea by caves and tunnels. The entrance of the park is free and it closes at dusk. You can have a swim and use the cabins in the park entrance to change and wash up.
Once you are done with the visit, get back to the road and turn right. And start looking for a spot on the beach to camp.

23°02’02.00″N – 59°04’53.30″E.

Sunrise on the beach — Morning sunrise on the Indian ocean

A great place to camp on the beach.
Note that the area is very popular on week-ends (Thursday and Friday nights here) attracting a lot of people for barbecue and camping on that particular spot. As such, the idyllic isolated beach front can rapidly turn into a loud and busy party place where you won’t find sleep until very very late. The rest of the week it’s pretty much deserted.

This is the end of day one on the trail.